Question 1

How do I know if my lock needs to be repaired or replaced?

Accepted Answer

If your key is hard to turn, the lock sticks, or the cylinder wobbles, it likely needs servicing or the cylinder replaced — which is less expensive than a full lock swap. If the lock body itself is cracked, the bolt doesn't extend fully, or it's a Grade 3 builder-grade lock with no ANSI rating, replacement is the better investment. We'll diagnose it for free when we arrive.

Question 2

What is the lifespan of a deadbolt?

Accepted Answer

A quality Grade 1 deadbolt (Schlage, Medeco, Mul-T-Lock) lasts 7–15 years with normal use. Cheap builder-grade Grade 3 hardware often wears out in 3–5 years, especially on high-traffic doors. Signs it's time to replace: the key is hard to insert, the bolt doesn't retract smoothly, or you can visibly see wear on the cylinder face.

Question 3

What do strange noises from my lock mean?

Accepted Answer

A grinding noise usually means debris in the keyway or a worn cylinder — cleaning and lubricating with graphite powder often fixes this. A clicking or popping sound when turning the key suggests a worn driver pin or broken spring inside the cylinder. A rattling deadbolt suggests a loose mounting screw or a strike plate that's misaligned. All of these are quick, inexpensive fixes.

Question 4

What should I do if my door lock is damaged after a break-in?

Accepted Answer

Do not try to force a bent or damaged lock — you can make it worse or get locked out entirely. Call us immediately. We carry replacement cylinders, strike plates, and door frame repair hardware on our trucks. Most post-break-in door repairs are completed in one visit. Document the damage with photos before we arrive for your insurance claim.

Question 5

My door is stuck open — what should I do right now?

Accepted Answer

If your door is stuck open after a break-in or a lock failure, your home or business is unsecured. Call us immediately at (929) 791-5757 — this is a priority response. While you wait, stay with the property if safe to do so, and do not leave it unattended. We carry replacement locks and door hardware on every truck and can secure the door on the first visit.

Question 6

My lock won't close — is it the lock or the door?

Accepted Answer

A lock that won't engage is usually caused by one of three things: the bolt is misaligned with the strike plate (common after seasonal door swelling), the latch mechanism is worn or broken, or the door frame has shifted. Try lubricating the bolt with graphite and check if the strike plate hole lines up. If neither helps, call us — misalignment and latch replacement are fast, inexpensive fixes.

Question 7

My door fell off the track or the frame is damaged — is it safe?

Accepted Answer

A door that is off its hinges or has a compromised frame is a real safety risk — it can fall and injure someone, and it leaves your space exposed. Do not try to rehang a heavy door yourself. Call us right away. We carry door hardware, hinge sets, and frame reinforcement materials. Until we arrive, brace the door in place if possible.

Question 8

A vehicle hit my garage or storefront door — should I repair or replace?

Accepted Answer

It depends on the extent of the damage. If the door frame and rough opening are intact and only the door itself is damaged, repair is usually possible. If the frame, threshold, or surrounding wall is compromised, replacement is safer and more cost-effective long-term. We assess on-site and give you a written estimate before any work starts.

Question 9

Do you charge more for after-hours emergency calls?

Accepted Answer

We charge a standard service call fee for all after-hours calls (nights, weekends, and holidays). We quote the total cost — service fee plus parts and labor — before we begin any work. There are no hidden fees. The exact after-hours rate will be quoted when you call; it is typically $25–$50 above the standard call fee.

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